Dolomites

16 September

“Stay west of the Elbe” warns the retired German Policeman at breakfast the next morning when he learns we are heading for the Harz region. Heavy rainfall in Slovakia and Poland for the last two days has caused widespread flooding, but the Elbe acts as a water break whenever this occurs. High winds across the region add to the problems.

Winter really has come early to this part of the world and it’s just 2º Celcius and freezing rain when we set out for Cortina. Better than last time, I suppose, when we awoke to find the bikes covered in three inches of snow. In late May. But the descent into Italy on the southern side of the Brenner brings with it an increase in temperature and rapidly drying roads.

The Fiume Gardera is technically demanding but satisfying and it’s a good job low clouds obscure the epic views of the stupendous Dolomites. These are a distraction you just don’t need, cranked over on the immaculate road surfaces.

Outside of Varda on SS242, a brace of Carabinieri, resplendent in their finest plumage, grin broadly at the racket my bike is making, the thunderous Italian V-twin seemingly a symbol of national male virility.

The SS48 to Cortina d’Ampezzo is fast, flowing and flattering of modest riding abilities. Even though it’s a short day of about a hundred miles, it’s been safe and swift and sometimes that’s all you need.

Cortina is bustling, chic and full of the same shops you see in upmarket resorts the world over. Despite being between winter and summer seasons, it's busy with visitors of all nationalities. Being Italy, the restaurant we had booked was closed unexpectedly. But the place next door squeezed us in and made me a Negroni that would have stunned a horse before serving up pizzas that were crisp, huge and perfect. Cleansing ales in the chilly evening air at a sportsbar afterwards rounds things off nicely. Sometimes life's simple pleasures are the best.