Washington State

08 April 2024

There’s no need to program a route into the Satnav to go from Astoria, Oregon to Forks, Washington as there is only one. Over the bridge and keep going. Through great foresight or a lucky bounce, the civil engineers have built this part of US101 to be rewarding on two-wheels, even in the inevitable pissing rain.

I reach South Bend as hunger strikes, so pull into the first place I see. At the Yellow Deli, a pair of very well-mannered and almost unnaturally calm men in their thirties welcome me and I take a seat.

One asks me if I’m enjoying my scrambled egg with cheese on sourdough-toast breakfast, which I am. The now familiar conversational arc plays out, but this time, with a twist…

He asks if I know the town of Huntingdon, near Cambridge. I do as it’s an hour from where I live but I’m curious to know why he does.

“Oh, we have a deli there also and one near Honiton, in Devon”

I’ve stumbled across one of The Twelve Tribes. Formerly and variously known as the Vine Christian, Messianic or Northeast Kingdom Community Churches, or, the Community Apostolic Order.

Founded in 1972 by hippies, disillusioned when unlimited quantities of drugs and free love failed to deliver the enlightenment they were seeking, said hippies looked to the 1st-Century church and the Book of Acts for inspiration. They found there a model for communal living they have followed since, but with a clear-sightedness that would shame most commercial organisations.

The Twelve Tribes now have thirty-three franchises (I know that’s probably not the correct collective noun, or know if one exists) with another six in the ‘pipeline’ and I again, apologise for this tawdry commercial language.

According to Wikipedia, the Twelve Tribes's beliefs resemble those of Christian fundamentalism. The Hebrew Roots and Sacred Name movements have been cited along with Messianic Judaism. However, the group believes that all other denominations are ‘fallen’, and it refuses to align itself with any others. They have strict courtship rules (so no random, guiltless, polyamorous shagging for this lot then), and their views on child-rearing have been a source of controversy.

Throw into the mix also, alleged supremacist views and teachings that have been characterised as ‘racist, misogynistic and homophobic’ and questions need to be asked. Ex-members also report excessive corporal punishment and failure to stop child sexual abuse, so they probably get on well with the Catholics.

It’s all fascinating for me as I’ve recently discovered the music of ‘The Airborne Toxic Event,’ and you will have to bear with me on this one…

I overheard ‘Carry Me’ in some hipster craft-ale bar a few days ago and downloaded their album ‘Hollywood Park’. It’s a quite brilliant piece of work with echoes of Arcade Fire, Counting Crows and The Waterboys and a companion piece to an extraordinary autobiography of the same name by their founder, one Mikel Jollett. This details his childhood, growing up and escaping from the ‘Synanon’  commune in the early 1980s, before winning a place at Stamford, a successful career as a music industry journalistic and calumniating with his success as an artist.

I won’t try to paraphrase it further as this would devalue a powerful, beautifully written and inspiring book. I urge you to listen to the album at least as there are passing similarities to the alleged characteristics of the Twelve Tribes.

I can only speak as I find, though and an hour in the presence of Derush and his fellow disciple is supremely soothing and relaxing. They are kind, considerate, engaged, educated and extremely interested in the European political situation, which they are very aware of but can take no stance.

The rest of the day would have been horrendous had it not been for this encounter. The rain is nothing like I have ever seen. The Lake District in July? The Black Forest in October? The Ardennes at any time of year? Pah, Light drizzle.

I think I must be under their spell as I ride serenely the next 150 miles, thinking only beautiful thoughts about other road users. I can’t even summon up a tantrum when I open the door to the worst motel room so far.

Peace be with you.

PS Only a couple of photos today, folks. The weather really was that shit.