Key West
02 March 2024
It’s 113 miles from the mainland's southern tip to Key West, the southernmost point of the USA. There’s one way in and one way out and that’s the Overseas Highway, spanning 44 tropical islands and 42 bridges. If it was built today, it would be something of an engineering marvel, but considering it’s getting on for 90 years old and 20 of the bridges date to 1913, it’s a miracle. Oh, yes it has withstood 100 years of hurricanes as well…
Like all bridges, the spectacle is better from a distance rather than driving on it and there are many stunning aerial photographs online, particularly the twin bridges around Pidgeon Island. But even with heavy holiday traffic (the first weekend of March is apparently the busiest of the season), the alternating teal and azure of the Caribbean Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico, combined with a stiff, cooling breeze justifies it as one of those journeys that has to be done once.
All the road junctions are known by their markers so the Marker 88 Restaurant in Islamorada is easy to find and a good place to break the four-hour drive from Miami.
On arrival in Key West, it’s clear that a single night is not enough to do it justice. So I remind myself that one of my reasons for cramming in quite so much on this tour is to scout destinations to go back to. Key West scrapes onto this list.
Be warned though: it’s rammed and accommodation is very expensive. The charming but basic Blue Marlin Motel was over £300 for one night, including parking for a single car and minimal breakfast. But there are curiosities like Ernest Hemingway’s house, which is out of the question if you don’t get there until late afternoon, as we did.
Also, we didn’t get the famous sunset as it was very overcast although it’s not quite the uninterrupted view of the gulf I thought it would be.
But who cares when there are craft ales in the Old Town Tavern and then dinner at the Red Shoe Bistro on the evening agenda? Key West has been long favoured by the LBGTQ crowd and this is discreetly celebrated at Red Shoe. The entire staff are gentlemen in the autumn of their years, clad in tight, black T-shirts, their evident dedication to the gym and botox making their ages indeterminate. Inevitably, service is indulgent, verging on the theatrical, and the food’s rather brilliant also. I’m glad I booked well in advance as all the drop-ins got charmingly turned away.
Time for one last drink and we’re tempted into the 801 Bourbon Bar by the sight of two drag queens, one of whom is belting out REO Speedwagon’s ‘Keep on Loving You’ from behind the bar as he/she serves drinks.
From the range on offer, we order three local beers called…
Well, let’s just say the name of it would make your eyes water and leave it at that.
